Heart AthensYour guide to Athens and Attica

Eat and Drink

Where locals actually eat and drink.

Deniz’s personal picks now have their own section: Heart Picks. For more places by type, see restaurants, tavernas, bars and cafes.

To Souvlaki tis Madame Sousou, Kolonaki

A souvlaki place in Kolonaki, on Maraslis at the corner of Alopekis, a short walk up from Kolonaki Square. Proper skewers and wraps in a neighbourhood better known for its cafes than its grills.

Deniz's pick. Order the turkey kebab. That is the thing to get here. A personal recommendation, not a ranking, and nobody has paid for it.
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Ama Lachei stis Nefelis, Exarcheia

A mezedopoleio on Kallidromiou 69 in Exarcheia, set in an old school building with a garden courtyard that comes into its own on a warm evening. Traditional flavours done properly, in a setting that is a large part of the reason to go.

Deniz's pick. Good food, a lovely setting and genuinely great service. Book in advance, it fills up, especially the garden tables. This is a personal recommendation, not a ranking, and nobody has paid for it.
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Souvlaki served in pita at a souvlaki shop in Athens

Kostas

Handmade pork and beef souvlaki near Syntagma since 1950. Go early.

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Photo: Miyagawa, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Souvlaki pork skewers

Serves: 4 · Time: 20 min prep, 2 hr marinating, 10 min cook

Pork shoulder
600g, cut into 2cm cubes
Olive oil
3 tbsp
Lemon juice
1 lemon
Dried oregano
1 tsp, plus extra to finish
Garlic
2 cloves, crushed
Salt and pepper
to taste
  1. Mix the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper in a bowl.
  2. Add the pork cubes and turn to coat. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
  3. Thread the meat onto metal or soaked wooden skewers.
  4. Grill over hot charcoal (or a griddle pan) for 10 to 12 minutes, turning every few minutes, until charred and cooked through.
  5. Rest for 2 minutes, then finish with a scattering of oregano and a squeeze of lemon before serving, traditionally wrapped in warm pitta.
Monastiraki Square in Athens packed with visitors at the height of summer

O Thanasis

A charcoal grill institution on Monastiraki's famous souvlaki street.

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Photo: CHMunro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Kebab Thanasis style seasoned skewer

Serves: 4 · Time: 15 min prep, 30 min chilling, 10 min cook

Minced lamb or beef
500g
Onion
1 small, grated and squeezed dry
Ground cumin
1 tsp
Sweet paprika
1 tsp
Chilli flakes
a pinch
Salt and pepper
to taste
  1. Combine the minced meat, grated onion, cumin, paprika, chilli flakes, salt and pepper in a bowl and knead until sticky and well bound.
  2. Cover and chill for 30 minutes so the mixture firms up.
  3. Shape into long sausages around flat metal skewers, pressing firmly so they hold together on the grill.
  4. Grill over hot charcoal for 8 to 10 minutes, turning regularly, until charred outside and cooked through.
  5. Serve off the skewer in warm pitta with tomato, onion and a dusting of sumac or paprika, in the Monastiraki souvlaki street style.
Watch it madeanthoula homemade, in GreekChef Gaston by Peter Catini, titled for Thanasis itselfOpens on YouTube. Not our video, and nothing is sponsored.
The Varvakios Central Market on Athinas Street, Athens, seen from the square opposite

Diporto

A hidden cellar taverna beneath the central market, a few perfect classics.

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Photo: C messier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Revithia baked Greek chickpea soup

Serves: 4 · Time: 10 min prep, 3 hr bake

Dried chickpeas
400g, soaked overnight
Olive oil
120ml
Onion
1 large, sliced
Bay leaf
1
Lemon
1, to serve
Salt and pepper
to taste
  1. Drain the soaked chickpeas and rinse well.
  2. Place in a deep ovenproof pot with the onion, bay leaf and olive oil, then cover generously with water.
  3. Bring to a simmer on the hob, skimming off any foam.
  4. Cover and bake at 150C (fan) for around 3 hours, topping up water if needed, until the chickpeas are completely soft and the liquid has thickened.
  5. Season at the end of cooking (salting chickpeas too early toughens them) and serve with lemon wedges and good bread, cellar taverna style.
Plateia Iroon, the central square of the Psyrri quarter in Athens

Klimataria

A vine covered Psyrri taverna since 1927, with live rembetiko music.

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Photo: Badseed, CC BY-SA 3.0 (also offered under GFDL), via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Keftedes fried Greek meatballs

Serves: 4 · Time: 20 min prep, 30 min chilling, 10 min cook

Minced beef or pork
500g
Stale bread
1 slice, soaked in water and squeezed
Onion
1 small, grated
Egg
1
Fresh mint and parsley
a handful, chopped
Flour
for dusting
Olive oil
for frying
  1. Combine the mince, soaked bread, grated onion, egg, mint and parsley in a bowl with salt and pepper.
  2. Mix well and chill for 30 minutes to firm up.
  3. Shape into small balls and roll lightly in flour.
  4. Fry in hot olive oil for 6 to 8 minutes, turning, until deep golden and cooked through.
  5. Drain on kitchen paper and serve warm with lemon wedges, as at this Psyrri taverna since 1927.
A street in the Psyrri quarter, Athens

I Avli

A Psyrri courtyard taverna for spetzofai, keftedes and honest classics.

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Photo: Pavlos1988, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Spetzofai sausage and pepper stew

Serves: 4 · Time: 10 min prep, 30 min cook

Greek country sausage (loukaniko)
400g, sliced
Green and red peppers
4, sliced
Onion
1, sliced
Tinned tomatoes
400g
Olive oil
3 tbsp
Salt and pepper
to taste
  1. Heat the olive oil in a wide pan and fry the sausage slices until lightly browned. Remove and set aside.
  2. In the same pan, soften the onion and peppers for about 8 minutes.
  3. Return the sausage to the pan, add the tinned tomatoes, and season.
  4. Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are soft and the sauce has thickened.
  5. Serve hot with crusty bread, courtyard taverna style.
Ilia Poulopoulou street in the Thiseio neighbourhood of Athens

Steki tou Ilia

A Thiseio favourite famous for its grilled lamb chops.

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Photo: kallerna, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Paidakia grilled lamb chops

Serves: 4 · Time: 10 min prep, 1 hr marinating, 8 min cook

Lamb chops
8
Olive oil
3 tbsp
Lemon juice
1 lemon
Dried oregano
1 tsp
Garlic
1 clove, crushed
Salt and pepper
to taste
  1. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper.
  2. Coat the lamb chops in the marinade and leave for at least 1 hour.
  3. Grill over hot charcoal for 3 to 4 minutes per side, until charred outside and pink at the bone.
  4. Rest for a couple of minutes.
  5. Serve simply with lemon wedges and chips, Thiseio favourite style.
Authentic Greek taverna Athens

To Rini

A produce driven spot near the Archaeological Museum, daily changing menu.

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How to make Fasolakia lathera green beans in olive oil

Serves: 4 · Time: 10 min prep, 45 min cook

Fresh green beans
600g, trimmed
Potatoes
2, cubed (optional)
Onion
1, chopped
Garlic
2 cloves, chopped
Tinned tomatoes
400g
Olive oil
100ml
  1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot and soften the onion and garlic for 5 minutes.
  2. Add the green beans (and potatoes, if using) and stir to coat in the oil.
  3. Pour in the tinned tomatoes and enough water to just cover.
  4. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 40 to 45 minutes until the beans are meltingly soft and the sauce has reduced.
  5. Serve warm or at room temperature with feta and bread, in the daily changing, produce led style of this taverna near the Archaeological Museum.
The Parthenon on the Acropolis of Athens

A for Athens

The rooftop that started the craze, with a direct Parthenon view.

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Photo: Jim Killock, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Htipiti spicy feta and pepper dip

Serves: 4 · Time: 10 min prep, 30 min chilling

Feta cheese
200g
Roasted red pepper
1 large, or from a jar
Olive oil
3 tbsp
Red chilli or chilli flakes
to taste
Lemon juice
1 tsp
  1. Blend the feta, roasted pepper, olive oil, chilli and lemon juice in a food processor until smooth but still with a little texture.
  2. Taste and adjust the heat and lemon.
  3. Chill for at least 30 minutes to let the flavours settle.
  4. Serve drizzled with extra olive oil and crusty bread, as a sundowner meze with a rooftop view of the Parthenon.
Monastiraki Square in Athens packed with visitors at the height of summer

360 Cocktail Bar

A three floor rooftop on Monastiraki Square, best at sunset.

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Photo: CHMunro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Ouzo, served the traditional way

Serves: 1 · Time: 5 min, no cooking

Ouzo
50ml
Cold water
50 to 100ml
Ice cubes
a handful
  1. Pour the ouzo into a tall glass.
  2. Add cold water slowly; the clear spirit will turn cloudy (louche) as the anise oils separate.
  3. Add ice cubes afterwards, not before, so the drink does not turn bitter.
  4. Serve alongside small meze plates rather than as a shot, in the unhurried, sunset view style of a rooftop bar.
Kolonaki Square, Athens

Dexameni

A historic literary cafe in Kolonaki, coffee by day and meze later.

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Photo: Giorgoos, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Ellinikos kafes Greek coffee

Serves: 1 · Time: 2 min prep, 5 min cook

Finely ground Greek coffee
1 heaped tsp per cup
Cold water
1 small cup (about 65ml) per serving
Sugar
to taste (sketos none, metrios 1 tsp, glykos 2 tsp)
  1. Add water, coffee and sugar (if using) to a briki (long handled pot) and stir once before heating.
  2. Heat gently over a low flame without stirring again.
  3. Watch closely as the foam (kaimaki) rises just before boiling; remove from the heat at that point.
  4. Pour slowly into a small cup, sharing the foam evenly if making more than one.
  5. Let the grounds settle for a minute before drinking, literary cafe style.

Late Night Bars and Clubs

Greek nights start late. Bars fill from about 23:00 and clubs do not get busy until well after midnight, so an evening that begins at nine is still early.

Batman

A tiny Neos Kosmos institution open since 1989 and still the most legendary after hours bar in Athens. Impromptu live playing, Greek music, a cult following among artists and musicians, and a crowd that arrives when everywhere else is closing.

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How to make Tirokafteri spicy feta dip

Serves: 4 · Time: 10 min prep, 20 min chilling

Feta cheese
200g
Greek yoghurt
2 tbsp
Olive oil
3 tbsp
Red chilli or chilli flakes
to taste
Garlic
half a clove, optional
  1. Mash the feta with a fork or blend briefly so it keeps some texture.
  2. Stir in the yoghurt, olive oil, chilli and garlic (if using).
  3. Taste and adjust the heat.
  4. Chill for 20 minutes before serving with bread and ouzo or tsipouro, old school after hours style.
The Gazi Technopolis cultural centre

Gazi and Iera Odos

The clubbing district around Technopolis. Large venues, bouzoukia and late licences. Things do not get going until well after midnight.

Photo: G Da, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

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How to make Karpouzi me feta watermelon and feta

Serves: 4 · Time: 10 min prep, no cooking

Watermelon
500g, chilled and cubed
Feta cheese
150g, cubed or crumbled
Kalamata olives
a handful, optional
Olive oil
1 tbsp
Fresh mint
a few leaves
  1. Arrange the chilled watermelon cubes on a plate.
  2. Scatter over the feta and olives, if using.
  3. Drizzle with olive oil.
  4. Finish with torn mint leaves and serve immediately as a refreshing plate between rounds on a long clubbing night.

Psyrri after hours

The densest concentration of late bars in the centre. Wander Sarri, Aisopou and Miaouli and follow the noise.

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How to make Bakaliaros skordalia fried cod with garlic dip

Serves: 4 · Time: 30 min prep (plus 24 hr soaking cod), 20 min cook

Salt cod (bakaliaros)
600g, soaked and desalted 24 hours, changing the water
Flour
150g
Sparkling water
200ml, cold
Potatoes
3 large, for the skordalia
Garlic
3 to 4 cloves
Olive oil
100ml
Vinegar
1 tbsp
  1. Boil the potatoes until tender, then mash while hot with the crushed garlic, olive oil and vinegar to make the skordalia; season to taste.
  2. Cut the desalted cod into pieces and pat dry.
  3. Whisk the flour and sparkling water into a light batter.
  4. Dip the cod in the batter and deep fry in hot oil for 4 to 5 minutes per side until golden and crisp.
  5. Drain and serve hot with the garlic skordalia, a classic pairing for a wander through Psyrri's late bars.

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