Eat and Drink
Where locals actually eat and drink.
Deniz’s personal picks now have their own section: Heart Picks. For more places by type, see restaurants, tavernas, bars and cafes.
To Souvlaki tis Madame Sousou, Kolonaki
A souvlaki place in Kolonaki, on Maraslis at the corner of Alopekis, a short walk up from Kolonaki Square. Proper skewers and wraps in a neighbourhood better known for its cafes than its grills.
Ama Lachei stis Nefelis, Exarcheia
A mezedopoleio on Kallidromiou 69 in Exarcheia, set in an old school building with a garden courtyard that comes into its own on a warm evening. Traditional flavours done properly, in a setting that is a large part of the reason to go.
Kostas
Handmade pork and beef souvlaki near Syntagma since 1950. Go early.
Book a tablePhoto: Miyagawa, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Souvlaki pork skewers
- Pork shoulder
- 600g, cut into 2cm cubes
- Olive oil
- 3 tbsp
- Lemon juice
- 1 lemon
- Dried oregano
- 1 tsp, plus extra to finish
- Garlic
- 2 cloves, crushed
- Salt and pepper
- to taste
- Mix the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper in a bowl.
- Add the pork cubes and turn to coat. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
- Thread the meat onto metal or soaked wooden skewers.
- Grill over hot charcoal (or a griddle pan) for 10 to 12 minutes, turning every few minutes, until charred and cooked through.
- Rest for 2 minutes, then finish with a scattering of oregano and a squeeze of lemon before serving, traditionally wrapped in warm pitta.

O Thanasis
A charcoal grill institution on Monastiraki's famous souvlaki street.
Book a tablePhoto: CHMunro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Kebab Thanasis style seasoned skewer
- Minced lamb or beef
- 500g
- Onion
- 1 small, grated and squeezed dry
- Ground cumin
- 1 tsp
- Sweet paprika
- 1 tsp
- Chilli flakes
- a pinch
- Salt and pepper
- to taste
- Combine the minced meat, grated onion, cumin, paprika, chilli flakes, salt and pepper in a bowl and knead until sticky and well bound.
- Cover and chill for 30 minutes so the mixture firms up.
- Shape into long sausages around flat metal skewers, pressing firmly so they hold together on the grill.
- Grill over hot charcoal for 8 to 10 minutes, turning regularly, until charred outside and cooked through.
- Serve off the skewer in warm pitta with tomato, onion and a dusting of sumac or paprika, in the Monastiraki souvlaki street style.
Diporto
A hidden cellar taverna beneath the central market, a few perfect classics.
Book a tablePhoto: C messier, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Revithia baked Greek chickpea soup
- Dried chickpeas
- 400g, soaked overnight
- Olive oil
- 120ml
- Onion
- 1 large, sliced
- Bay leaf
- 1
- Lemon
- 1, to serve
- Salt and pepper
- to taste
- Drain the soaked chickpeas and rinse well.
- Place in a deep ovenproof pot with the onion, bay leaf and olive oil, then cover generously with water.
- Bring to a simmer on the hob, skimming off any foam.
- Cover and bake at 150C (fan) for around 3 hours, topping up water if needed, until the chickpeas are completely soft and the liquid has thickened.
- Season at the end of cooking (salting chickpeas too early toughens them) and serve with lemon wedges and good bread, cellar taverna style.

Klimataria
A vine covered Psyrri taverna since 1927, with live rembetiko music.
Book a tablePhoto: Badseed, CC BY-SA 3.0 (also offered under GFDL), via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Keftedes fried Greek meatballs
- Minced beef or pork
- 500g
- Stale bread
- 1 slice, soaked in water and squeezed
- Onion
- 1 small, grated
- Egg
- 1
- Fresh mint and parsley
- a handful, chopped
- Flour
- for dusting
- Olive oil
- for frying
- Combine the mince, soaked bread, grated onion, egg, mint and parsley in a bowl with salt and pepper.
- Mix well and chill for 30 minutes to firm up.
- Shape into small balls and roll lightly in flour.
- Fry in hot olive oil for 6 to 8 minutes, turning, until deep golden and cooked through.
- Drain on kitchen paper and serve warm with lemon wedges, as at this Psyrri taverna since 1927.

I Avli
A Psyrri courtyard taverna for spetzofai, keftedes and honest classics.
Book a tablePhoto: Pavlos1988, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Spetzofai sausage and pepper stew
- Greek country sausage (loukaniko)
- 400g, sliced
- Green and red peppers
- 4, sliced
- Onion
- 1, sliced
- Tinned tomatoes
- 400g
- Olive oil
- 3 tbsp
- Salt and pepper
- to taste
- Heat the olive oil in a wide pan and fry the sausage slices until lightly browned. Remove and set aside.
- In the same pan, soften the onion and peppers for about 8 minutes.
- Return the sausage to the pan, add the tinned tomatoes, and season.
- Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the peppers are soft and the sauce has thickened.
- Serve hot with crusty bread, courtyard taverna style.

Steki tou Ilia
A Thiseio favourite famous for its grilled lamb chops.
Book a tablePhoto: kallerna, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Paidakia grilled lamb chops
- Lamb chops
- 8
- Olive oil
- 3 tbsp
- Lemon juice
- 1 lemon
- Dried oregano
- 1 tsp
- Garlic
- 1 clove, crushed
- Salt and pepper
- to taste
- Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper.
- Coat the lamb chops in the marinade and leave for at least 1 hour.
- Grill over hot charcoal for 3 to 4 minutes per side, until charred outside and pink at the bone.
- Rest for a couple of minutes.
- Serve simply with lemon wedges and chips, Thiseio favourite style.
To Rini
A produce driven spot near the Archaeological Museum, daily changing menu.
Book a table Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Fasolakia lathera green beans in olive oil
- Fresh green beans
- 600g, trimmed
- Potatoes
- 2, cubed (optional)
- Onion
- 1, chopped
- Garlic
- 2 cloves, chopped
- Tinned tomatoes
- 400g
- Olive oil
- 100ml
- Heat the olive oil in a large pot and soften the onion and garlic for 5 minutes.
- Add the green beans (and potatoes, if using) and stir to coat in the oil.
- Pour in the tinned tomatoes and enough water to just cover.
- Simmer gently, uncovered, for 40 to 45 minutes until the beans are meltingly soft and the sauce has reduced.
- Serve warm or at room temperature with feta and bread, in the daily changing, produce led style of this taverna near the Archaeological Museum.

A for Athens
The rooftop that started the craze, with a direct Parthenon view.
Book a tablePhoto: Jim Killock, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Htipiti spicy feta and pepper dip
- Feta cheese
- 200g
- Roasted red pepper
- 1 large, or from a jar
- Olive oil
- 3 tbsp
- Red chilli or chilli flakes
- to taste
- Lemon juice
- 1 tsp
- Blend the feta, roasted pepper, olive oil, chilli and lemon juice in a food processor until smooth but still with a little texture.
- Taste and adjust the heat and lemon.
- Chill for at least 30 minutes to let the flavours settle.
- Serve drizzled with extra olive oil and crusty bread, as a sundowner meze with a rooftop view of the Parthenon.

360 Cocktail Bar
A three floor rooftop on Monastiraki Square, best at sunset.
Book a tablePhoto: CHMunro, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Ouzo, served the traditional way
- Ouzo
- 50ml
- Cold water
- 50 to 100ml
- Ice cubes
- a handful
- Pour the ouzo into a tall glass.
- Add cold water slowly; the clear spirit will turn cloudy (louche) as the anise oils separate.
- Add ice cubes afterwards, not before, so the drink does not turn bitter.
- Serve alongside small meze plates rather than as a shot, in the unhurried, sunset view style of a rooftop bar.

Dexameni
A historic literary cafe in Kolonaki, coffee by day and meze later.
Book a tablePhoto: Giorgoos, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Ellinikos kafes Greek coffee
- Finely ground Greek coffee
- 1 heaped tsp per cup
- Cold water
- 1 small cup (about 65ml) per serving
- Sugar
- to taste (sketos none, metrios 1 tsp, glykos 2 tsp)
- Add water, coffee and sugar (if using) to a briki (long handled pot) and stir once before heating.
- Heat gently over a low flame without stirring again.
- Watch closely as the foam (kaimaki) rises just before boiling; remove from the heat at that point.
- Pour slowly into a small cup, sharing the foam evenly if making more than one.
- Let the grounds settle for a minute before drinking, literary cafe style.
Late Night Bars and Clubs
Greek nights start late. Bars fill from about 23:00 and clubs do not get busy until well after midnight, so an evening that begins at nine is still early.
Batman
A tiny Neos Kosmos institution open since 1989 and still the most legendary after hours bar in Athens. Impromptu live playing, Greek music, a cult following among artists and musicians, and a crowd that arrives when everywhere else is closing.
Official Athens Guide Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Tirokafteri spicy feta dip
- Feta cheese
- 200g
- Greek yoghurt
- 2 tbsp
- Olive oil
- 3 tbsp
- Red chilli or chilli flakes
- to taste
- Garlic
- half a clove, optional
- Mash the feta with a fork or blend briefly so it keeps some texture.
- Stir in the yoghurt, olive oil, chilli and garlic (if using).
- Taste and adjust the heat.
- Chill for 20 minutes before serving with bread and ouzo or tsipouro, old school after hours style.

Gazi and Iera Odos
The clubbing district around Technopolis. Large venues, bouzoukia and late licences. Things do not get going until well after midnight.
Photo: G Da, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Karpouzi me feta watermelon and feta
- Watermelon
- 500g, chilled and cubed
- Feta cheese
- 150g, cubed or crumbled
- Kalamata olives
- a handful, optional
- Olive oil
- 1 tbsp
- Fresh mint
- a few leaves
- Arrange the chilled watermelon cubes on a plate.
- Scatter over the feta and olives, if using.
- Drizzle with olive oil.
- Finish with torn mint leaves and serve immediately as a refreshing plate between rounds on a long clubbing night.
Psyrri after hours
The densest concentration of late bars in the centre. Wander Sarri, Aisopou and Miaouli and follow the noise.
Leave a review Review this placeHow to make Bakaliaros skordalia fried cod with garlic dip
- Salt cod (bakaliaros)
- 600g, soaked and desalted 24 hours, changing the water
- Flour
- 150g
- Sparkling water
- 200ml, cold
- Potatoes
- 3 large, for the skordalia
- Garlic
- 3 to 4 cloves
- Olive oil
- 100ml
- Vinegar
- 1 tbsp
- Boil the potatoes until tender, then mash while hot with the crushed garlic, olive oil and vinegar to make the skordalia; season to taste.
- Cut the desalted cod into pieces and pat dry.
- Whisk the flour and sparkling water into a light batter.
- Dip the cod in the batter and deep fry in hot oil for 4 to 5 minutes per side until golden and crisp.
- Drain and serve hot with the garlic skordalia, a classic pairing for a wander through Psyrri's late bars.